Perfect fifths, starting from the A
A violin is tuned G3–D4–A4–E5 — each string a perfect fifth above the last. Convention (and good sense) says tune the A string first: it’s the note the oboe gives the orchestra, it’s the reference your other strings are checked against, and at A4 = 440 Hz it sits right at the center of every tuner’s comfort zone.
Tune the A first, then D, G, E. Bowed notes give the tuner a steadier reading than plucked ones.
Pegs for the big moves, fine tuners for the last few cents
- Check all four strings first with the tuner above. If a string is close — within about a quarter tone — you can do the whole job with the fine tuners at the tailpiece and never touch a peg.
- For bigger drops, use the peg — while plucking constantly. Press the peg firmly into the pegbox as you turn (pegs hold by friction alone), sneak up to just below the note, then finish with the fine tuner.
- Bow the string for the final check. A long, moderate bow stroke on the open string gives the dial a sustained, stable tone. Read the needle mid-stroke, not at the scratchy start.
- Re-check the A after tuning the others — four strings over a floating bridge shift each other more than guitarists ever have to deal with.
Playing with others — and playing viola
If you play in an ensemble that tunes to A = 441 or 442 Hz — many orchestras do — a proper chromatic tuner lets you move the reference pitch instead of fighting it; the history of why concert pitch varies is a story in itself, told in our guide to 440 Hz and friends.
Play viola, not violin? The mechanism is identical — same pegs, same fine tuners, same tune-the-A-first order — but the string set, the clef, the sizing convention and the wolf tone are genuinely different, so it gets its own page rather than a second tab here: see our online viola tuner for C–G–D–A.
Frequently asked questions
Should beginners tune with pegs or fine tuners?
Fine tuners, whenever the string is close enough. Pegs demand a specific knack — pressing in and turning at once, with instant feedback — and a slipped peg can drop a string a fifth in a blink. Many beginner violins sensibly ship with fine tuners on all four strings. Graduating to pegs comes naturally later.
Why does my violin go out of tune so fast?
Usually pegs (slipping or shrinking in dry air), new strings still stretching, or the bridge leaning after enthusiastic tuning. Glance at the bridge occasionally: it should stand perpendicular to the top. A leaning bridge both detunes strings and, left alone, can warp or fall.
Can I tune a cello with this?
A cello’s G, D and A sit exactly one octave below the violin’s, with a low C underneath and no E string at all — so three of the four targets on this page are an octave off for a cello, and the fourth does not exist on one. Our dedicated cello tuner has the right four pre-set, along with wolf-tone and endpin-slip guidance.